Washington
Change of Hue for Washington Vineyards
As Washington’s red wine grape tide falls, whites are on the rise.
Washington has white wine history. Riesling and Chardonnay dominated the early plantings, as 1970s heat-unit research said whites would do well in the cool Northwest. Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc were popular, too.
Over time, producers learned Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah could thrive as well. In the early 2000s, the red-to-white share hovered around 50 percent, with investment in premium wines focused on reds. In 2016, when new red acreage began producing, the share swung to about 60 percent red, with rapid growth at lower price points.
The state may be veering white again, especially at the premium level, an area some consider Washington’s best growth opportunity. Price per ton for grapes overall increased from 2022 to 2023, according to the Washington State Wine Commission’s grape production report for 2023, a year of drastic volume decreases, partly due to contract cuts by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. The year before, white prices overall increased, despite volume increases, while reds went down.
For the past eight or nine years, Walla Walla has been known for expensive reds. If winemakers wanted whites, they shopped. Now, companies are planting white varieties.
Kristina Kelley, executive director of the Washington State Wine Commission, has noticed white movement as part of a “generational shift.” Gen Z consumers surveyed in 2023 by the Wine Market Council said they drink Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, along with rosé and sparkling wines.
Malbec vs Merlot: Comparing Great Wine Varieties
Merlot is known for its soft, silky texture with red fruit flavors, such as strawberry, raspberry, and plum. These tasting notes can be accompanied by some vegetal notes in cooler climates. What it lacks in complexity, it makes up for in sensuality, which wine lovers rave about.
Ah, the age-old debate on the best wine – Malbec vs Merlot. The answer can be either, as both of these fine wines offer something truly unique and Malbec wine is a bold, full-bodied red wine that originated in France.
Malbec is known for its deep purple color, intense aroma and spiciness, medium acidity, and medium to high tannin structure. Malbec wines are an excellent option for long-term aging due to their sturdy nature and malleability when subjected to malolactic fermentation, oak aging, and blending with other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon.
Enjoyable Malbecs are common from Argentina. This environment allows Malbec to flourish due to the warm climate, helping it reach new heights of flavor complexity. Malbec is often enjoyed with roast beef, grilled lamb or any dishes with a strong spicy profile.
The Merlot grape also trace their origins back to France, specifically the Bordeaux region. It’s a medium-bodied wine with soft, juicy tannins. Aside from its telltale aromas of blackberries and plums, it also features notes of chocolate, leather, and tobacco.
Merlot has an often malleable character and this malleability makes it a great partner for Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in blends such as Bordeaux wines. Merlot is known for its soft, silky texture with red fruit flavors, such as strawberry, raspberry, and plum. These tasting notes can be accompanied by some vegetal notes in cooler climates. What it lacks in complexity, it makes up for in sensuality, which wine lovers rave about.
New Zealand offers some of the greatest wines in the world, at some of the most attractive prices.
A $33,000 Bottle of Wine From Bordeaux
For someone who socializes with royalty and makes a wine that sells for roughly $33,000 a bottle, the 48-year-old Pasquet is unassuming in person.
His Liber Pater 2007 had been poured for the assembled guests in the ornate gallery of Paris’s Opéra Garnier to accompany the cuisine of star chefs Alain Ducasse and Akrame Benallal. The wine was stunning, its bold fruit flavors, with touches of smoke and chocolate, making it seem far younger than its 16 years. It soon became the wine that everyone at the awards was talking about, either praising it for its taste or chattering about the cost (sometimes both), with guests openly debating the sky-high price tag.
The vastly more expensive vintages produced since are composed of “100 percent native varieties and 100 percent ungrafted Franc de Pied,” Pasquet says.
The main grape variety used in both Liber Pater and Denarius is Petite Vuidure, an old name for Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s blended with the nearly extinct varieties Mancin, Castets, Saint-Macaire, Pardotte, Gros Cabernet, and Cabernet Goudable, as well as Tarnay Coulant. Pasquet asserts that his Petite Vidure from ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines is completely different from the modern Cabernet Sauvignon currently cultivated in Bordeaux.
The most expensive Chardonnays on the planet are still from Burgundy, France
Leroy Domaine d'Auvenay Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 98 $23,121
Leroy Domaine d'Auvenay Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 97 $20,690
Leroy Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 95 $11,867
Bold Plantings of Ribolla Gialla in Sonoma
A fan of off-the-beaten-path northern Italian wines, he met and soon teamed up with Sam Bilbro of Idlewild Wines, Sonoma’s leading proponent of growing quirky Italian varieties in local soils.
The result is a bold experiment: Drummond’s Las Cimas Vineyard has Northern California’s largest plantings of Italian and subalpine French varieties in one place.
“We’d get a glass of wine and dinner and talk and sort of dreamed it all up together,” says Bilbro, who focuses on Piedmont varieties at Idlewild Wines.
Beginning in 2020, the pair regrafted 50 acres of the site’s Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel vines to more than 40 varieties—from Friuli’s white Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friulano to Piedmont reds Nebbiolo and Grignolino.
Other Piedmont grapes, planted in one-acre plots, include red Dolcetto, Ruché and Freisa, and white Erbaluce, Nascetta and California’s first known Timorasso.
The 1750s: The Discerning Public Embraces Vintage
By the 1750s, elite British and Irish wine drinkers had caught on to the importance of vintage. So had the négociants, for whom the capacity to store wines from different vintages became important. One early 19th century analysis reported that by the 1780s, wines from a good vintage would be “kept at Bordeaux 3 years, sometimes 4, 5, or 6 years,” before being shipped, “during which time the greatest care and attention are paid to them in fining and drawing off the lees and preventing fermentation.”
In 1750 Dublin, an advertisement appeared from Christopher Quin, “lately arrived from Bordeaux.” He had “imported a parcel of Choice Claret of different growths, the vintage of 1747 and 1748, . . . at the following reasonable rates - the 1st growth of Obrejone [Haut-Brion] at £18 per hogshead and 18s per dozen.
Sonoma County Vintners Foundation (SCVF) announces the distribution of $350,000 across 35 Community Grants to Sonoma County nonprofits to continue their work in education & literacy, health & human services, the environment and arts & culture. See the full list of grant recipients at sonomawine.com/impact.
Proceeds from the annual Sonoma County Wine Auction are distributed as SCVF Community Grants to local nonprofit organizations each year. This is possible only through the tremendous support and generosity of the Sonoma County wine community, donors, and sponsor partners. This year’s grants were funded by the 2023 Sonoma County Wine Auction, which has been reimagined for 2024 as the Sonoma County Wine Celebration (SCWC). The three days of new events are happening September 19-21, with the live auction taking place on Saturday, September 21 at Chateau St. Jean.
Crop Size
The recent heat wave (thank you, Sirius) impacted potential crop size throughout the North Coast in two ways. First, some vineyards experienced minimal sunburn. Second, and more significantly, the heat wave stalled an otherwise optimal period for berry growth. Earlier in the year, crop size projections were generally above average.
However, due to the heat and a less-than-ideal set, they are now closer to average, and in some cases, below average. For example, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon initially appeared to be roughly 10% above average but is now projected to be average, or potentially below average, due to shatter and smaller berries.
Other notable crop estimates include Sauvignon Blanc throughout the North Coast which appear to be average at this time, perhaps a bit smaller in Napa and Sonoma. Despite the heat, the crop is still trending larger than average for Mendocino Chardonnay and potentially slightly larger than average for Sonoma Pinot Noir as well.
In addition to reducing crop potential, the heat wave also shifted the expected harvest date forward by 10 to 14 days from the previously anticipated average timeframe. Recent milder weather could further accelerate vine development and continue to advance the expected harvest date
Oldest Vines
The Lodi AVA, established in 1986, is America’s single largest wine growing area, covering more than half a million acres, with more than 110,000 of those acres planted to grapes.
Approximately 2000 acres of Lodi vineyards consist of pre-Prohibition, own-rooted vines, some with vines that have been growing in these sandy soils for more than 140 years.
Lodi’s ancient vines, like many such vineyards around the world, are an endangered species that will only survive through a combination of proactive conservation and public advocacy by those who understand what they mean to the world of wine.
These vineyards can produce wines unlike any other in the world. The difference in flavor between a 4-year-old, trellis-trained, irrigated Cinsault vine, and a 150-year-old, own-rooted, dry-farmed vine with roots plunging 90 feet down into 20 million years worth of eroded granite sands cannot be overstated.
Heat Problem?
Following a pleasant May and early June, much of California began experiencing a record heat spell in late June through the first half of July. The prolonged heat may potentially have slowed sugar accumulation and slightly affected yields in the vineyards, but as the growing cycle was running up to three or four weeks ahead of where it was in 2023, and water supplies are good after a wet winter, the heat is not yet – as of the time of writing on July 15th – a significant concern
Ribolla Gialla - Teach an Old Dog New Tricks
(ree-bohl-lah jahl-lah)
This is an ancient white variety from northern Italy, bordering Slovenia. Rarely do I get excited about a new grape. But, Ribolla Gialla was served to me by my friend Margarita this week, and I was blown away. This wine was from Bueuna Vista, but I have found more producers. This is on my new hit list !
Some flavor profiles are:
Lemon custard, aloe vera, jalapeño, apples, peach fuzz, saline, yogurt. Balanced acidity and body with flavors that last and evolve on the palate. Similar to Gruner Veltliner in minerality, silky mouth feel. Leslie Hennessy
The Bordeaux Classification of 1855
The courtiers hardly even paused to think; two weeks later, they turned in the famous list. It included 58 châteaus: four first-growths, 12 seconds, 14 thirds, 11 fourths and 17 fifths. They expected controversy. "You know as well as we do, Sirs, that this classification is a delicate task and bound to raise questions; remember that we have not tried to create an official ranking, but only to offer you a sketch drawn from the very best sources."
Reaction to the classification was heated. The courtiers' original list ranked the châteaus by quality within each class, so, for example, Mouton-Rothschild appeared at the head of the seconds. But undoubtedly responding to criticism, they wrote the chamber in early September insisting that no such hierarchy had been intended, so the chamber rearranged the list of each class into alphabetical order. And so began the famous 1855 Bordeaux classification.
Zinfandel Old Vines
Dry Creek Valley has more than 9000 acres of vineyards owned by 150 different winegrowers. It is most known for Zinfandel. There are 32 different Dry Creek Valley vineyards at least 69 years old listed in the Old Vine Registry, including 18 that are more than 100 years old and five that were planted in the 1800s. The oldest are two Teldeschi Ranch vineyards planted in 1885.
Sonoma County Leads DTC Shipment Volume
Wineries in Sonoma County account for the largest volume of DTC shipments, sending 1,998,630 cases worth $814 million through the channel in the 12 months ended May. Value was down 2% from a year ago, while volume was down 11%. The average shipment value was $33.95 a bottle, below the national average of $49.45 a bottle.
By price, shipments from Sonoma skew more affordable, and the lower the value, the greater the volume shipped. Wines priced less than $20 account for the largest volume, accounting for $42% of shipments. In terms of value, shipments cluster in the $40-$49.99 and $60-$79.99 tiers, with these two price bands accounting for 32% of shipments. DTC shipments were dominated by Pinot Noir, which held 19% of the channel by volume and 28% by value; Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay followed as the second and third most valuable
Wine For Your Health
A study conducted by Iowa State University found that moderate red wine consumption could reduce visceral fat, a type of fat linked to increased risk of heart disease. The anti-inflammatory effects of resveratrol contribute to this reduction, thereby lowering the overall risk of cardiovascular diseases.
Additionally, red wine has been shown to help regulate cholesterol levels. Research presented at the European Society of Cardiology indicated that both red and white wines could lead to significant improvements in cholesterol levels when consumed in moderation alongside regular physical activity.
Flavonoids, which are abundant in red wine, play a crucial role in reducing blood pressure. According to a study at Queen’s University Belfast, consuming three glasses of red wine per week can significantly lower blood pressure.
A study focusing on older adults found that those who consumed white wine in moderation had higher bone mineral density compared to those who drank other types of alcohol, including red wine and beer.
Boz Turns 80
Boz and his wife Dominique grow Rhone varietal grapes on their Napa vineyard that they planted in 1988. They planted Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cournoise varieties. They outsource their grapes and have made various Rose's and red blends. Pictured above is Boz working the harvest.
Drones Aid in Fire Prevention
Today, there is a heightened emphasis on risk mitigation and loss prevention as winery owners adapt to the new realities of their environment.
This shift toward a safety-oriented culture is not limited to wineries; it resonates within the insurance industry as well. The profound financial repercussions of wildfires have compelled both the winery and insurance sectors to actively engage in advancing wildfire prevention.
The Sonoma County Winegrowers association has organized workshops and educational sessions on fire prevention and response. Initiatives such as the Sonoma County Wildfire Resilience Program enhance preparedness through winery and fire department collaborations. Wineries work together to ensure properties are fire safe — participating in efforts to clear vegetation and create firebreaks — thus fostering a resilient, fire-aware community. safety and developing impactful preventive measures.
The aerial imagery captured by drones provides a unique perspective on the spatial distribution of vegetation, buildings and other structures, helping to pinpoint where fire breaks or additional protections might be necessary. Overflying large properties drones are also able to identify infrastructure, outbuildings and other often overlooked values.
Time to Buy Bordeaux
A year ago, the value of Bordeaux sought by buyers was roughly equal to the value of Bordeaux looking for a home. Today, there is more than three times as much Bordeaux for sale than the fine wine market is looking to absorb. All indicators, therefore, suggest that we are in a particularly slow period for Bordeaux.
Notable estates like Château Léoville Las Cases and Château Lafite Rothschild have released their wines at prices 32-40% lower than the previous year, responding to market demands for affordability. Despite the reductions, sales have been tepid, with fewer buyers and smaller orders than in previous years. Asian demand has notably declined, contributing to a cautious atmosphere among traders.
2024 Sonoma County Barrel Auction Raises Community Funds
Sonoma County Vintners (SCV) is pleased to announce that over $400,000 was raised at the 10th Anniversary Sonoma County Barrel Auction (SoCoBA), presented by American AgCredit and hosted by MacMurray Estate Vineyards on Friday, May 3, 2024. The proceeds assist in creating marketing programs and initiatives that support the Sonoma County wine trade and community.
First Aluminum Wine Bottle
Are Glass Bottles on the Way Out ?
Element[AL] Wines was announced today from Bogle Family Wine Collection as the first-of-its-kind wine brand with 750ml aluminum wine bottles that are shockingly lightweight, infinitely recyclable, and are made in the shape of a traditional wine bottle. The new environmentally friendly format will shatter expectations about how and when wine can be enjoyed and answer the call-to-action from the wine industry to rethink glass bottles, the largest contributor to wine’s carbon footprint. Starting January 2024, the Element[AL] portfolio will be available in 100% recyclable aluminum bottles with four varietals, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Rosé and Pinot Noir. Each wine varietal is grown in sustainable vineyards throughout California’s premier growing regions.
Bordeaux's Stroke of Genius
The World's Most Wanted Bordeaux on Wine-Searcher:
| Score | Ave Price | |
|---|---|---|
| Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac | 96 | $729 |
| Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac | 96 | $942 |
| Petrus, Pomerol | 96 | $4254 |
| Château Margaux, Margaux | 96 | $768 |
| Château Latour, Pauillac | 96 | $794 |
| Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan | 96 | $646 |
| Château d'Yquem, Sauternes | 96 | $474 |
| Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac | 95 | $139 |
| Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac | 94 | $171 |
| Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion | 96 | $763 |
Bordeaux's stroke of genius was the 1855 classification, by which wines were categorized according to their perceived quality, a standard that has remained untouched ever since, apart from a brief ripple when Château Mouton Rothschild was elevated to First Growth status 50 years ago. When you are constantly referring to your wines as first, or second or fifth growths, the world presumes you know what you're talking about and tends to go along with you.
An Ancient Wine Shop in Rome? Why Not?
Fourth Century
Two researchers recently announced the discovery of an ancient wine store in Greece.
Why do archaeologists Gallimore and Wells think the structure was a wine store? For one, archaeologists recovered 13 complete or near-complete amphorae here, including one with a spigot and two with sawn-off tops. “All features which point to pouring out, not filling up,” said Wells. “Additionally, we found three funnels for decanting.”
Digs also uncovered 60 coins. “A common find when excavating ancient shops,” said Wells. Most bear the face of fourth-century Roman emperor Constantius II.
Napa Valley is Still Number One
Napa Valley continues to be the king when it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon. The following list of the worlds most wanted Cabernet's points that out. Most of the those listed are from Napa. The contibruting factors are the intense heat during the day and then the cooling breezes from San Pablo Bay blowing up to Calistoga at night. All of this in a small macro-climate valley. Along with some very intellegent viticulturits, enologists, and ampelographers.
The World's Most Wanted Cabernets on Wine-Searcher:
|
Cabernet Name |
Score |
Ave Price |
|
|
97 |
$4105 |
||
|
91 |
$94 |
||
|
95 |
$1034 |
||
|
93 |
$237 |
||
|
95 |
$368 |
||
|
93 |
$155 |
||
|
96 |
$965 |
||
|
91 |
$78 |
||
|
94 |
$207 |
||
|
96 |
$262 |
Italian Proseccos by the Numbers
Whether its Italian or Spanish, we are drinking more of these inexpensive bubbly’s than ever before. And, in the Italian category these are the top selling on the planet today.
The world's most wanted Prosecco on Wine-Searcher are :
| Prosecco Name | Score | Ave Price | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottega 'Gold' Prosecco Brut | 87 | $27 | |
| La Marca Prosecco | 86 | $18 | |
| Le Vigne di Alice 'Doro Nature' Brut | 88 | $24 | |
| Bisol Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG | 90 | $41 | |
| Mionetto Prosecco di Treviso Brut | 87 | $15 | |
| Freixenet Prosecco | 87 | $17 | |
| Ruggeri Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Cartizze Brut DOCG | 90 | $22 | |
| Zonin Cuvee 1821 Prosecco Spumante Brut | 87 | $14 | |
| La Gioiosa et Amorosa Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG | 89 | $17 | |
| Le Colture Prosecco di Treviso Millesimato Rose Brut | 88 | $15 |
Little Known Wineries Where You Can Stay the Night
Azari Vineyards, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County
Enjoy the grounds and beautiful hills then settle in to a four-bedroom guesthouse or a comfortable one-bedroom cottage.
Blue Rock Winery, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County
The architecture of the buildings is simple as it clings to the hill.
Salvestrin Winery, St. Helena, Napa County
Right on the edge of St. Helena and known for pouring crisp sauvignon blancs and bright reds, this boutique Napa Valley winery invites guests to stay in its 1879 farmhouse-turned-inn, which has lovely Victorian details inside and out.
Benovia Winery, Santa Rosa, Sonoma County
The classic barn design makes the estate feel authentic and deliberate.
Chateau de Vie, Calistoga, Napa County
Part winery, part bed-and-breakfast and full-time French countryside-style getaway, five separate private rooms and suites are available.
Ektimo Vineyards, Sebastopol
Very cool 4 bedroom lodge next to the the feeding farm of goats.
Michel-Schlumberger, Healdsburg, Sonoma County
With two separate vineyards planted on distinctly distinct kinds of soils, Sonoma County’s Michel-Schlumberger developed luxury guest suites at this mission-style estate.
Terra Sávia, Hopland, Mendocino County
Rosé all day (and all night) in this Sanel Valley retreat on the North Coast. The vineyard’s two-bed, two-bath home includes a private pool, spa, and reading enclave.
Skipstone Winery, Geyserville, Mendocino County
Surrounded by the Mayacamas, this stone covered castle-like structure is just a few miles from the Healdsburg Plaza. An imposing, five-bedroom home is newly open to the general public.
Dutton Estate Winery, Sebastopol, Sonoma County
The four-bedroom Winery House at Dutton Estate feels like someone’s real home but the vineyard wraps around entirely, creating a classic Wine Country retreat
Testa Ranch, Calpella, Mendocino County
This Mendocino County ranch and winery has been in the Testa family for more than 100 years and is now owned and operated by the fourth and fifth generations. weekend in the three-bedroom, craftsman-style farmhouse built by the ranch’s first settlers.
George and Amal Clooney New Wine
The Clooneys bought the 420-acre estate in 2021. In addition to a large manor, it came with olive orchards and 10 acres of vines planted two decades ago by winemaker and agronomist Laurence Berlemont.
Berlemont, who has considerable experience working with Hollywood stars turned winegrowers, remains the Clooneys' farmer-winemaker. Berlemont also worked with Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie at Miraval until 2015, as well as with George Lucas at Château Margüi.
Historical Wine Tidd-Bits
The oldest planted Sonoma Pinot Noir vineyard in California was started by James D. Zellerbach and his wife Hana. Named Hanzell, this original Pinot parcel of six acres was planted in 1953. This author visited with the wine maker Bob Sessions in 1978 and purchased their 1976 Pinot Noir which sold for $13 per bottle in our wine shop named Hennessy’s in San Francisco. Bob Sessions told this author that the grape cuttings came from Clos du Vougeot in Burgundy. Clos du Vougeot was originally a wine farm, built in the 12th century by monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux.
Also interesting was the fact that Hanzell was the first winery to use stainless steel jacketed fermentation tanks. With glycol cooling through the insulated walls of the fermentation tank, the temperature could be controlled at a constant degree. This ensured a more uniform body and -as the French say ‘persistence’ in the wine. Leslie Hennessy
Zinfandel May Just Be the Answer
If ever a grape suffered from "always the bridesmaid" syndrome it's surely Zinfandel – but perhaps that is set to change.
Zin has never been particularly fashionable; certainly not in the way that Cabernet, Pinot Noir or even Merlot have been, but a younger generation of consumers – even a famously abstinent one – might just be Zinfandel's saving grace. Indeed, Zinfandel could also end up being wine's saving grace.
As the wine industry faces up to dealing with the enormous reality that we are past "peak wine", producers are scrabbling around to find something – anything – that will wean the next generation of drinkers off alcoholic sodas and non-alcoholic kombucha and into wine. Zinfandel might just be an option, despite its relative unpopularity with wine's gatekeepers.
Younger wine drinkers don't really have much patience for the circular logic of received wine wisdom – wine educators telling their students that Bordeaux and Burgundy are inherently superior wines (because that is what they were taught), and the next generation churning out the same old dreary catechism to yet another generation – they'd much rather find out what they like themselves, without the sermonizing.
And Zinfandel is ideal for that. It's relatively cheap, accessible, available and utterly without pretension, making it a perfect place for a new generation to cut their wine-drinking teeth. Edited from Wine Searcher
Large 2023 Crush
California's large grape crop of 2023 is great news for wine lovers. The total of 3.67 million tons crushed is 8 percent more than in 2022, according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture's annual grape crush report. Moreover, California is poised to make more of the wines people love, and less of the supermarket wines that fewer people are buying.
There will be more white wine. More Napa Cabernet. More Sonoma Chardonnay. More Central Coast and Mendocino County wine. And while inflation isn't going to be suddenly reversed, the law of supply and demand should keep prices from rising.
The Ciatti Company said many tons of fruit, even from good regions, never made it to the crushpad.
"We continue to believe that the potential crop out there was bigger than 4 million tons," Proctor said. "There was still unpicked crop in Sonoma County. Not just there."
Larry Brooks
Great New Wine Book
My good friend and past wine maker at Acacia and numerous other wineries including his own Campion has written a fabulous book - Liquid Geography, by Larry Brooks. Here are just a few of his book excerpts:
"What does give women their real advantage as tasters over men is their greater native ability to focus on emotional and intuitive thinking…"
"Over 400 aroma compounds have been identified in wine."
“Wine is the intellectual part of a meal” Alexandre Dumas.
“The flavor of wine is like delicate poetry” Louis Pasteur.
The book is currently free at Liquid Geography by Larry Brooks. And it's a great read!
https://larrybrooks.substack.com
Rose Taint In Your Wine
Have you ever had a red wine that smelled unpleasantly like "grandma's perfume?" If so, you may have experienced "rose taint" – and climate change may make this more common in years to come.
What happens is that grapevines awaken early – this is becoming more common because of global warming – and immediately begin producing new leaves. But then, because it's still February or March, a frost comes in and kills the leaves. The leaves dry up and crinkle, becoming tiny and almost impossible to remove. It is these frost-dried leaves that put the rose taint in your wine.
Here's something European purists won't like. Vineyards in heatwaves really need to be irrigated, said Elizabeth Forrestel, assistant professor in UC Davis' Viticulture and Enology. Forrestel said that if vines are not irrigated during a heatwave, the resulting wine will simply not taste as good.
Forrestel said that the best way for vineyard owners to prepare for climate change is to plan to have a shorter growing season, with an earlier harvest, because extreme climate events tend to happen in autumn. And, irrigate in heatwaves
Cabernet Franc - The New Hot Varietal
Since the grape Cabernet Franc was imported from Bordeaux with it's fellow blending grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot (and very occasionally, Carménère) - its singular quality as a food wine has exploded.
Interestingly, the grape is practical in the vineyard, requiring less growing season than its family member and Napa Valley darling, Cabernet Sauvignon. This makes Cabernet Franc more reliable in cooler vintages and ensures its availability for early harvests when weather conditions and fire smoke pose threats.
It offers a spectrum of flavors, from lush, dark fruits with significant aging potential to crunchy red, brambly fruits with green pepper notes.
The Most Wanted Wines in 2023
Prices worldwide on Wine-Searcher (US$, ex-tax, per 750-ml bottle):
| Wine Name | Avg. Price | |
|---|---|---|
| Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac | $654 | |
| Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac | $933 | |
| Dom Pérignon Brut, Champagne | $191 | |
| Château Margaux, Margaux | $712 | |
| Petrus, Pomerol | $3258 | |
| Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri, Tuscany | $245 | |
| Château Latour, Pauillac | $842 | |
| Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan | $615 | |
| Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits | $20,241 | |
| Château d'Yquem, Sauternes | $457 |
So was it always thus? Was the wine world only ever interested in Bordeaux First Growths, with the odd seasoning of Champagne and Burgundy thrown in? Well, the answer is: pretty much, yes.
Looking at the list of the all-time most searched-for wines on Wine-Searcher, we find that eight of the same wines are in the top 10. The only changes are the presence of the Saint-Émilion star Château Cheval Blanc, and Napa standard-bearer Opus One, in ninth and 10th positions, respectively.
Check out the mustard season in the vineyards.
Wine Books To Check Out
Biodynamic Wine Demystified
“Wine is made in the vineyard” is the mantra of many a winemaker. But what does it mean, really? Esteemed winemaker and biodynamic pioneer Nicholas Joly believes a wine that is well-made in the vineyard. It must express its unique terroir—the character imbued by a vine’s particular plot of well-tended earth. We agree.
$ 29.95 ISBN 9781934259023
How And Why to Build a Wine Cellar
This popular classic, which is based on the author's personal experiences of building a wine cellar in his home and collecting wines for fun and investment, is now completely updated for the modern wine collector. Richard Gold
$ 29.95 ISBN 9781891267000
Why Winter Is a Great Time to Visit Sonoma Wine Country
Some like it hot, but Wine Country can be truly magical in the milder months. The region’s temperate climate means that it never gets too cold, even in the dead of winter, making outdoor excursions and activities pleasant during much of the season.
There are more opportunities to join in friendly chats with winemakers who, on slower days, might also be more inclined to pour you vintages not always available to the public.
Winter is also a time to experience pruning season in Sonoma Wine Country, when winemakers and vineyard workers shape the dormant vines for the coming harvest season and wineries invite guests for special tours anmight also be more inclined to pour you vintages not always available to the public.
Wine Country is replete with more affordable dining options during Restaurant Week, which runs from Feb. 19 to Feb. 25 in 2024.d tastings.
Last year, nearly 100 restaurants offered prix fixe menus that included two and three courses for a fixed price, ranging from $10 to $15 to $25 for lunch, $25 to $35 to $55 for dinner and a “sweet perk” for $5.
